Time for spring: free Star skirt pattern

Finally the sun is showing her face from time to time, and that always makes me feel like sewing some new skirts for my youngest girl.
So today I am launching a new free skirt pattern, Star.
The Star skirt is a playful and versatile pdf sewing pattern for kids in sizes 80 to 158.
Create a dashing tiered skirt with two layers, as a mini or maxi, with or without pockets, perfect for little stars who want to shine in a unique creation!

You can find the skirt here, it includes the pattern in A4/letter file, A0 file and as a projector file.

In this blog post I will take you through the tutorial to make the skirt, complete with tips and lots of pictures.

Requirements

–Star skirt pattern
-fabric and elastic (see pattern)
-matching thread
-sewing machine
-overlocker

My machines and sewing feet

BERNINA 480 with Three-Sole Walking Foot with Seam Guide #50
BERNINA L 890 with gathering foot C18

Tutorial

1.Preparing and cutting your pattern pieces

Review these steps in the information file you received with the pattern.

2.Gathering the bottom layer

2.1.Gathering with gathering threads

Stitch 2 gathering threads at the top of your bottom layer.
Stitch the first at presser foot width from the top edge, the second at presser foot width from the first.
To make the gathering easier, you can lower the thread tension a bit and increase your stitch length.

Repeat for the other bottom layer.

Gather by gently pulling the gathering threads and dividing the gathers evenly.
Continue until the bottom layer is as wide as the top layer.

Place your bottom layer on top of the top layer and pin in place, right sides together.
The gathered edge aligns with the bottom of the top strip.

Stitch into place.
Tip: When stitching, place the gathered fabric facing up, this way you will have control over stitching the gathers.

Remove the gathering threads and finish the seam with your overlocker or with a zigzag stitch.
Press the seam toward the top layer.
Finish the side seams as well.

Repeat all these steps for the other top and bottom layer.
You can now proceed to step 3.

2.2.Gathering using the gathering foot for your overlocker

Want more information about gathering with the gathering foot for your overlocker ?

Be sure to check out this blogpost:

My settings on the Bernina L890:

Start with the bottom layer and place it under the gathering foot right side up.
Sew a few stitches until your needle is just 1 stitch into your fabric, cutting 5mm off the fabric with the knife.

Raise your presser foot, leaving the needle in the fabric.
Slide the top layer through the slot of the gathering foot, right side of the fabric is facing down.
Slide it in until the edge of the fabric is against the needle.

We’re not going to cut off a piece of this layer of fabric, we will let it slide along the knife.

Start stitching, making sure the centers of both layers come together and continue to the end of the fabric.

Your bottom layer is now immediately gathered and attached to your top layer

Press the seam toward the top layer and finish the side seams.
Repeat these steps for the other top and bottom layer.

3.Adding pockets

Not adding pockets?
You can hop over to step 4

Start by collecting your edge finished pocket pieces.

Lay 1 skirt piece right side up in front of you.
On each side seam, place 1 pocket piece on top, right sides together.
Place the top of the pocket against the mark and pin in place.

Stitch the pocket piece into place at 1cm from the edge.

Press the pocket pieces away from the side seam.

Repeat for the other skirt piece.

Place your 2 skirt pieces on top of each other, right sides facing.

Pin side seams and pockets together.

Start stitching at the top of your skirt piece until 1cm below the top of the pocket.
Leave the needle in your fabric and raise your presser foot.

Turn your skirt and lower the presser foot.
Now you can stitch the curve of your pocket.

Stitch until you reach the side seam of your skirt again.
Turn your skirt and continue towards the hemline.

Press the side seam open and repeat for the other side seam.

Your pockets are ready ;-).

4.Waistband

At the top edge of your skirt, press 1cm seam allowance inwards, all the way around.

Then press the top edge inwards again, 2.5cm (for sizes 80/86 – 98) or 3.5cm (for sizes 104 and up).

Stitch into place at 2mm from the edge.
At the back, leave an opening of about 4cm to thread your elastic through.

Thread your elastic through the tunnel and take the ends together.

Stitch the ends of your elastic together with a zigzag stitch.

Cut 1 part of the seam allowance of your elastic short.

Fold the longer end over the short one and stitch again with a zigzag stitch.
That way your elastic will be nice and flat and won’t interfere with the waistband.