Welcome to part 5! If you missed the previous instalments then you can find them here: Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 1, Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 2, Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 3, Sewalong: Kalle Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 4.
This is how my dress is looking at this stage.
Using the button hole markings on the pattern pieces as a guide, use a pin to mark the location of your buttonholes. Try on shirt to confirm button location works for your figure. For more on button hole placement you can watch this video by Closet Core Patterns.
Since I lengthened my dress by 4cm (178cm / 5,10″ tall) I’ve decided to add an extra button.
I’m using 9 instead of 8 buttons.
Once you’ve marked out the position of your buttonholes, attach your buttonhole presser foot.
Adjust your stitch length and width. I’m using the automatic button hole setting on my machine, and I’ve decided on a stitch width of 4.5 and a stitch length of 0.70.
Set your button hole length by measuring your button diameter. Your button hole should be a couple of mm larger than there length of your button.
Make sure to practice on a scrap of the same fabric that mimics your final garment in terms of layers and interfacing. Then, when you are ready, go ahead and sew your button holes. If you are nervous about making a mistake try starting with a button hole which is less visible, like towards the bottom near the hem. If you do have to unpick don’t worry, it happens sometime and we’ve all been there! Good luck, you’ve got this!
Remember the buttonhole in the collar stand is sewn horizontally, whilst the rest of the buttons are sewn vertically.
Once you’ve sewn all your buttonholes it’s time to trim the threads. I like to thread mine through to the back and knot them several times before trimming. Use Fray Check to prevent unravelling.
To open the button holes I like to use this nifty button hole puncher.
You can watch my very satisfying Instagram reel on the button process here.
Now onto the buttons themselves. Close your shirt dress and mark the centre of each button hole onto the left side of the shirt using tailor’s chalk or an erasable marker/pencil. (Reminder, in women’s clothing, buttonhole are typically placed on the right side of the garment, so the buttons are on the left.)
Next, attach your button presser foot, if sewing the buttons by machine.
Select the automatic button setting on your machine if you have one, or set your machine to a zig zag stitch with a stitch width that matches the button hole spacing and a stitch length of zero. Some people like to hold their buttons in place with tape, just make sure it doesn’t leave behind a sticky residue. It’s ok to sew through the tape then peel it off afterwards. Sew on buttons. If it’s your preference, you can thread loose ends to the space between the button and placket, wrap the threads a few times around to create a shank, then knot, clip and apply Fray Check.
Again, it’s advisable to complete the process on a test scrap first before attempting on your final garment, just to make sure you are happy with the finish before committing.
And voila! You’re all done, congratulations!
Thanks for following along with this Sewalong. Happy sewing, Leanne xx
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Der Beitrag Sewalong: Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Core Patterns Part 5 – Buttons erschien zuerst auf BERNINA Blog.